Nutella is now at the sharp end of some difficult trends

Spread the happy. If Nutella took its slogan to heart, it could circle the globe and back again. The nut-and-chocolate gunge is adored by kids and has its own world celebration day. In France, a 2018 supermarket promotion sparked a riot. Nutella has overtaken Marmite as Britain’s favourite spread, and divides opinion as sharply. Its phenomenal success has made a mint for Italian multinational confectioner Ferrero, which also owns brands such as Ferrero Rocher and Kinder. The business, which grew out of a family bakery in the 1950s, might be worth as much as €50 billion. The Ferreros would rank as one of the world’s wealthiest families… Their business is now at the sharp end of some difficult trends… A backlash over health is the biggest risk. Sugar, the new pariah substance, makes up more than half the weight of a jar. In 2012 Ferrero agreed to set aside $3 million to settle a class-action lawsuit filed by a California mother. She had been surprised and upset to learn Nutella was not a “healthy, nutritious” food. She was widely mocked. But as the costs of obesity rise, so will taxes on foods like Nutella.